13 - 16 February 2024 // Nürnberg, Germany


Leading the way

© Elfriede Dambacher

What I find fascinating about market research is that it provides us with ideas that anticipate future developments. I’ve learned that product trends are preceded by other long-term trends that are ultimately incorporated in new products. Megatrends provide numerous indications of what technological trends will follow before product innovations are available on the shelves. Development in the cosmetics sector can be traced back to the megatrend of sustainability and health. Again and again I’ve noticed that real bestsellers on the shelves can be discovered when new products have hit the nail on the head – when they’ve captured a demand that I hadn’t even formulated but am now excited about the idea.

It bothers me that around 80 percent of all new cosmetics products remain on the shelves for only two years, which is absurd in an era of sustainable economics. I like it when there are genuine innovations that change the market, such as solid cosmetics products. Why are there so many “duds” on the cosmetics market? Often there’s no comprehensive analysis that takes a broader view. An idea first has to be turned upside-down and inside-out until there are no more blind spots. Then the conditions are right for successful implementation. In addition to an in-depth analysis, this includes taking into account the real demands of consumers.

The current product trends in the natural cosmetics sector can be seen in the recently published trend categories for natural and organic cosmetics. These are determined each year at VIVANESS by a jury of experts based on the submitted innovations. Natural and organic cosmetics is a demand-driven market and has been an important indicator for the overall cosmetics market for a number of years. Brands that meet buyers’ current demands are ahead of the game and attract the attention of curious customers who like to try out new things. I’m struck by the spirit of young brand makers who often act on the basis of their own needs. They create new products because they think that the ones available don’t do the job. That’s why there’s something refreshingly new in all the categories, from baby care to hand care, that invigorates the market. The Best New Product Awards at VIVANESS make this uniquely and abundantly clear. The trend categories show me how natural skinification and self-empowerment as well as social change are being reflected in the cosmetics market. Today it isn’t just about sustainability but also about individuality, functional products, and living up to our own commitment to care.

One example from the Self-Empowerment trend category underscores the confidence with which international start-ups are approaching even taboo topics. Natural cosmetics wellness products for female sexuality have been extremely popular. They illustrate the spirit of the time and highlight the importance – for young target groups in particular – of sustainable, innovative products that meet the requirements for natural and organic cosmetics.

I like the way that young brands are defining their approach to cosmetics and implementing it in products that also change the inventory in my bathroom and always attract attention when I give them as gifts.

Elfriede Dambacher, owner of naturkosmetik konzepte, is an international expert and author. www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de